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bucatini, fermented garlic-thyme butter, and house smoked tomato) are the unsung heroes. Now, local barbecue enthusiasts get get their fix without the drive to Central Texas, filling up on fatty, 18-hour-smoked brisket and succulently-crisp burnt ends, moist, peppery pork ribs, and sides from a dreamy mac & cheese to old school Tater Tot casserole.

Save space for the daily selection of monster-sized, multi-layer cakes by the slice.

That said, you’ll also want to try pork neck schnitzel, broken, butter braised onion pasta, and an ingenious creation that is basically a mussels and calico bean bruschetta. That kind of talent means you’ll find game-changing things like smoked, cured, and preserved seafood charcuterie, tom yum hot pot laced with all kinds of high-end shellfish, and a few surprises that will pull you over to the land side, including a knockout Rohan duck salad.

Gin and tonics, mules and tikis, and spot-on martinis round out the fun.

Chef Austin Simmons (Cureight) has another place to show off his superlative talent in the kitchen, this time at the recharge of the old Hubbell & Hudson Bistro.

Aside from the flawlessly executed holy trinity of brisket, ribs, and sausage, we’re talking special offerings from gochujang beef belly burnt ends and smoked turkey banh mi to Thai green curry boudin.And if you’re a sucker for a good burger, stop by for lunch.Tris’s comes hard with two smashed and juice-dripping Akaushi Wagyu patties, bacon jam, and American cheese and iceberg lettuce on a toasted English muffin.Whatever you do, start with the house-made sourdough with sea salt and cultured butter.Chris Shepherd has proved his love of cooking -- meat, specifically -- time and time again.

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